At the beginning of January, I moved to Buenos Aires to help UberEats launch in parts of Argentina. It was such a liberating feeling: I wasn’t committed to anything (no rent to pay or physical objects tying me down) and got to devote myself entirely to work and picturing what I was hoping for in the next chapter of my life. It really opened up my mind to an endless amount of possibilities and honestly think gave me the courage to apply to business school earlier than planned. It was also so cool helping Eats (a company I believe in so much) spread to other parts of the world, and have a part in helping them build out their strategy for further expansion. If work ever gives you this opportunity to move abroad for a few months, I highly encourage you take it!
Checkout the list of recs I got from my friend Valeria that I’m slowly working through!
know before you go
Bring lots of cash or have a transaction free debit card. I would say about 50%~ of my favorite restaurants either don’t except credit card or only accept Visa or Mastercard. Bring USD to convert into ARS. Also ATM fees are outrageous. Most places charge around $10USD to pull out cash. I have a transaction free debit card (Fidelity ftw!) but for those who don’t recommend you bring cash bc lots of ATMS will cap you at pulling out like $40.
Inflation is real. ARS to USD changes consistently. (When I got here in January it was at 36ARS to 1 USD, when I left in May it was at 44, and now in December it is at 60.)
Awkward story… the app I downloaded to convert currency hadn’t updated to data so when I was eating at a sushi restaurant I thought everything was 20ARS to 1USD, and I wrote this scathing review because I thought everything was so expensive (think $15 for a set of nigri) only to realize I was being dumb and converting everything wrong.
Electronics and clothing… what?! If you’re coming here and looking to shop for either of those two items, recommend you skip. Electronics here are at least 2x the price (#customs) and clothing isn’t great. I haven’t done much shopping here unless I want to buy a few tchotchke’s to bring home.
Itinerary
Buenos Aires, Argentina
January 2019 to June 2019- Airbnb in Palermo Hollywood
Recommend staying in Palermo Soho or Palermo Hollywood. It’s where all the posh food and bars are, it’s far enough from really touristy areas, and the neighborhood is so cute. Palermo Hollywood to be closer to nightlife and chic restaurants. Palmermo Soho for shopping. (I have noticed there are less housing options in Soho).
Also, this Airbnb is one of the best Airbnb’s I’ve stayed at. 24/7 security #mamayuapproved, rooftop pool, and huge floor to ceiling windows with a view. Airbnb host is also the sweetest man!
If you’re peeping this while I’m still in BA, chances are I’m still staying here. If I’ve left BA by then, can’t recommend staying here enough. Ping me and I’ll text the host!
Cordoba, Argentina
January 2019 - 4 days for a work trip!
Mendoza, Argentina
April 2019 - Two day trip to wine country
Buenos aires Highlights
Eating in Argentina. Damn, there is SO much good food here. Besides the classic Argentine food, Buenos Aires also attracts some of the best cuisine in the world at outstanding prices. Most “high end” meals I’ve had (including many boozy bottles of vino tinto and dessert) have always come out to be less than $25.I don’t know why, but still every time the check comes I’m always astounded. Best part is because everyone in Argentina goes to dinner late, you’re almost always guaranteed a table if you go early… at 8pm (!!!) A few of my favorite restaurants … (bolded my absolute MUSTS).
American-esque:
Proper: This is my favorite restaurant in Buenos Aires and quite possibly the world. Tapas style and in a renovated car garage, this place does food and ambiance equally well. Great blend of veggies, meat and seafood. Order double bread because trust… the sauce in each plate is so good you’ll want something to dip it in. Don’t pass on the pulpo or burrata, and they have an off the menu rib-eye that was honestly one the best meat I’ve had in BA so far. And the best part? Their flan is AMAZING. So smooth and creamy, and cut with dulce de leche. Get here by 7:45pm, otherwise you’ll be waiting at least two hours, and ignore the low reviews, people are mad the waits so long. (I’ve been selfishly waiting to review it on Yelp for fear it’ll get even more popular than it already is.)
Fat Broder: Quite possibly the best burger in the world….I never crave burgers and somehow ended up eating this twice in a week. Instead of one patty, they do two smaller patties and that honestly makes it so much juicier. You can’t go wrong with the Juicy Lucy or Blue Bernie. Get the combo ($10) and ask for “papas fritas doble coccion” (double fried, its amazing). They also have the best sauce: cilantro y lime & aderezo de berenjena (smoked eggplant dressing).
Burger Joint: Alright, pick Fat Broder or Burger Joint. Fries and ambiance is better at Burger Joint (fountain in their garden… What?!), Fat Broder is more unique. Personally its a toss up for me. DM me if you’ve been to both and have a preference!
Buenos Aires Verde: Get the raw lasagne and omega salad. Food is soo good, you won’t miss the meat, and tbh after a weekend in Buenos Aires… you’ll need the greens.
Sheikob’s Bagels: Owner is from NY and he makes homemade bagels! This place sells out before 2pm, and I have a coworker who literally comes here every Saturday. Love their salmon everything bagel. Skip if you’ve been to NY and have had their bagels before.
Asian-esque (IDK, both feel like a fusion to me)
Gran Dabbang: Legit one of the most unique restaurants I’ve ever had. Dubbed “Asian, Fusion, Indian x Argentina” I truly don’t know if I ever had food as fresh or unique as this. The Chef here was trained at the same institute as Proper’s Head Chef. Rotating menu every two weeks meant I’m came back here a lot.
Sunae Asian Cantina: Used to be closed-door restaurant, so popular it opened up as a normal restaurant. Bomb SEA food if you’re craving. Their Halo Halo dessert is wonderful.
Other:
Sarkis: Mediterrenean and Argentine isn’t exactly what you would think of as a dynamic duo, but this place aces it. Chicken salad mixed with quinoa, dalmas, and their lamb in yogurt and you’ll have yourself a fantastic meal. Came here with three boys and we were absolutely stuffed (so you know we ordered a lot of food) and paid $15 each.
Pizzeria Guerrin: $1 USD and legit a local spot. Fast and quick pizza joint, and crust rivals Prince Pizza in NY. Skip all the other flavors except Mozzerella. I tried them all and this is the best. (Legit the thickest slab of cheese on a bread).
Steakhouses galore. First and fore-most I’m not the hugest fan of red-meat so when I recommend it, I’m really recommending it. In Argentina, they do cook a lot of their steaks a bit more red, so follow up just in case.
Don Julio: 100% worth the hype. Skip the reservations (unless you’re short on time) and come for the free champagne and empanadas. Order the sweetbread, provoleta with red pepper, and of course steak (1 steak for 2 people, or you can order half size). Their pan (bread) is out of this world, as is their dulce de leche ice cream. Don’t forget a bottle of vino tinto (my favorite is from Uco De Valle, Mendoza) and sign their bottle at the end! Not as red as La Carnicera, but still recommend if you’re a fan of medium rare, order medium.
La Carniceria: More upscale parilla. Make reservations early, they only do two seatings for lunch & dinner. Their sweetbread is bomb, as is their pear provoleta. Skip the gin & tonic (I don’t know why everyone raves about this). If you’re a fan of medium rare, order medium. Their steak was really really red. I legit cut around half of the steak the first time I came.
Amazing desserts. Some musts that are famous here in Argentina.…
Alfajores: Like a big moon pie. They have free ones at the office haha, but I’ve really enjoyed Havanna (cafe) ones because they have so many different flavors.
Dulce de leche: I’m not a HUGE fan of this. It’s legit just straight up caramel…but hey when in Argentina do as the Argentines do.
Flan: Best flan I’ve had so far has been at Proper Restaurant. Literally feels like it’s been cut with dulce de leche.
Ice Cream/Helados: Rapa Nui is my favorite. But tbh, whenever I order it as a dessert (Don Julio’s Dulce De Leche Helados is yumm) I’ve always really enjoyed.
Mate: Alright not a dessert, but people here love mate. I think it tastes alright, but definitely worth a try.
Medialunas: Sweet croissants. So buttery and fluffy, amazing to have with a latte in the morning.
Going to puerta cerradas or “closed-door restaurants”. The equivalent of a speakeasy, closed door restaurants are created by top chefs in private establishments. They range from antique shops to someone’s home. Check back here! I’ll update as I continue to scope them out.
Casa Salt Shaker: Located in someone’s home and open Thurs to Sun, make reservations via their online website and introduce yourself. $80 for 5 wine pairs (WOW) + cocktail + 5 course meal + coffee /tea. Pricey so unsure if it is worth it. I think if I had $80, I’d rather go to Proper x Don Julio twice then spend it here.
Update: Tried to find more closed door restaurants to go to, and a lot of the famous ones have closed down. Steaks by Luis is also a famous Parilla closed door restaurant, but if you end up having an asado with Argentine friends it’s the same concept. While closed door is a fun concept, they end up being 3-4x a price of a restaurant in Argentina.
Going out until 4…5…6am. Buenos Aires is wild. The weekends I’m not heading to bed early watching Gilmore Girls, I’ve gone out with friends and literally danced so much the next morning I legit felt like I finished a Barry’s Workout.
Some speakeasy bars to check out:
Uptown: Less of a speakeasy imo, but you enter through a subway car (non-moving) and it has the BEST music.
La Floreria Atlantico: Enter in through a flower shop and WOW the flower shop in the front smalls AMAZING.
Frank’s: Give the password, go to the phone booth dial a number (find via twitter). enter through the back of the phone booth. Get their old fashion bc they serve it in a treasure chest with dry ice!
Vico Wine Bar: The Yogurtland of Wine. Over 50+ flavors and three sizes of pours. Amazing cheese + meat plate! *This has been one of my favorite bars in Argentina and highly recommend!
Shopping in flea-markets. Come on the weekend for unique flea market and pop up shops.
Palermo Hollywood Flea-market: Some of the best handmade crafts and I’ve seen (think: wool blankets, leather mate cups, homemade Soludos type shoes). Not touristy, locals come here to shop as well. Cute cafes and boutiques are a dime a dozen.
Flea-market outside Recoleta: Another great flea market to spend weekend.
Being touristy in La Boca. Not worth spending more than 3/4 hours, but this is a popular location for tourists as it is where you find the colorful houses and impromptu tango shows.
Spending the afternoon in El Ateneo bookstore. Dubbed “the most beautiful bookstore in the world”, El Ateneo is a theatre turned bookstore and coffeeshop dripping with tourists. All books are in Spanish. Bring a book here, sit in one of the theatre boxes and enjoy a quiet evening reading here, or budget 15 min to explore the bookstore and then bounce.
Sightseeing in San Telmo. Traditional old area with decrepit mansions. Go on a Sunday to stroll the huge antiques market.
Strolling through San Telmo Antique Market. Never seen such a large collection in my life. However beware, this is very touristy and a lot of the items are mixed in with literally “junk sale items” dubbed as “antique”. Recommend budgeting less than one hour here.
Going boxing at HitBox Palermo. Fitness is huge here (you’ll often see people running outside or going to fitness classes) and everyone here is SO FIT. Signed up for a HitBox membership and it’s like Rumble but for $6/class AND you can individual time in the boxing ring with a personal trainer. It’s amazing, and I feel so badass after each class.
Enjoy the laid back lifestyle. Buenos Aires will always have such a special place in my heart. Working with Argentines taught me a lot about living a “laid back / chill life”. I appreciate the concept of asados because it is taking a whole day from your weekend to chill and spend quality time with friends and family. Often times in San Francisco you feel pressure to line up 10x activities / social events in your calendar and always be on the move during the weekend, but I think there is a beauty of just enjoying meat and cheese with loved ones in a chill environment. :’)
buenos aires Lowlights
Cheese in sushi. I love cheese and sushi, but together? It’s just not a thing I can get behind. Sin queso por favor.
The lack of iced lattes. “Cafe un frio” doesn’t exist, save your tastebuds and get yourself a cortado.
Really late dinners. I love that everything is open late, but that also means places open late as well. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been hungry at 7pm (#NORMAL) only to have to wait until 8pm, because restaurants don’t open until then.
